Secrets of the Chefs
Just The Right Spice
 
– By Janice Llanes Fabry –

The new Rye Roadhouse reopened almost six months ago under new management, and the new chef is keeping things hotter than ever. Cajun cuisine is Chef Joseph Baynes’ specialty and more and more patrons are heading to 12 High Street.
Co-owner Tom Codispoti, known simply as “Cody” around here, is delighted with the warm reception the restaurant has received. Customers are pleased with the renovation, the menu and the service. “We treat everyone like they’re walking into our living room and it’s great having the opportunity to really take care of the people I’ve come to know so well,” he said, referring to his
stint as the old High Street Roadhouse’s day manager for five years.
Also known to many residents as the starter at the Rye Golf Club, Codispoti teamed up with John and Greg DeMarco and Kevin Campbell, all with ties to the old Maple Tree on Purdy Avenue. The DeMarco brothers’ father was the beloved owner of The Maple Tree. The four local entrepreneurs set out to revitalize the former High Street eatery.
Baynes, their new chef, was also quite familiar with the old Roadhouse. It was his stomping ground after work for five years while he worked in the kitchens of the Westchester Country Club. These days, he’s perfecting his southern- and Cajun-style cooking. He loves cayenne pepper and paprika, which burns quickly and blackens his fish and meat to perfection. Having studied at the
Culinary Institute of America and having picked up a few pointers during visits to New Orleans, he insists “Big Joe’s Jambalaya”ù is second to none. As he said, “I put a lot of love into it.”
Other popular dishes at The Rye Roadhouse include St. Louis barbecued ribs, bourbon glazed pork chops, southern fried chicken and Cajun meatloaf. Many stop by for bar food pickings, po’ boys, burgers, Louisiana crawfish, creole gumbo, Cajun rolls stuffed with pulled pork, jalapeno mac ‘n cheese, black bean soup and homemade fajitas and chilies.
For Sunday brunch, patrons may enjoy a Bayou- or Cajun-heaven omelet, buttermilk biscuits or pancakes and homemade Andouille hash. Longtime restaurateur Mike O’Donnell, who doubles as the brunch bartender and Stepinac High School’s athletic director, makes the tastiest Bloody Mary. He uses the classic Maple Tree recipe with jalapeno olives and pepperoncini peppers.
Just about all of The Rye Roadhouse’s offerings have a unique twist, but the atmosphere is familiar, easy and fun. As Codispoti said, “There are not too many taverns like this left in Rye.” Hours: Sunday through Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Call 925-2668 or log on at www.RyeRoadhouse.com.
 
Recipe for Big Joe Jambalaya (serves 10)
 
Olive oil, for sautéing
1 pound smoked andouille sausage, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 pound raw small to large shrimp, peeled, shells reserved
1 pound pork in 1/2 in. cubes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped
4 celery ribs, roughly chopped plus 2 celery ribs, minced
2 cups dry white wine
2 bay leaves
2 14-ounce cans diced tomatoes
6 cups chicken broth
3 t. smoked paprika
1 large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
10 to 12 scallions, white and greens parts chopped separately
4 cloves peeled garlic, minced
3 cups uncooked long-grain rice
1 t. thyme leaves, minced
1 t. hot sauce, or to taste
2 T. chopped parsley leaves
 
Heat large heavy saucepan over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the sausage and pork until browned on both sides. Season shrimp with salt and pepper. Add seasoned shrimp and continue to cook for 2 minutes or until shrimp are cooked about half way, just turning pink. With a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage, pork and shrimp to a plate.
Sauté shrimp shells in the same pan used for sausage and shrimp for 5 minutes until toasted and red. Add the onion and celery, white wine, bay leaves, canned tomatoes, chicken broth and paprika, if using. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes and remove the shrimp shells and vegetables with a slotted spoon. Bring the broth back up to a simmer.
Heat the original pot that the broth was in and add some olive oil. Add the green pepper, scallion whites, and garlic. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Add the rice and thyme and sauté for about a minute and then season with salt and pepper. Add stock (3 parts stock to rice, about 9 cups of broth). If you do not have enough broth, add chicken broth and bring
the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook the jambalaya rice for 20 minutes. Stir in the hot sauce and parsley and then add the shrimp, pork and sausage. Season with pepper and cook the mixture, covered, for 5 more minutes or until the shrimp are just done and the rice is tender.