Secrets of the Chefs
La Piccola Casa…Bigger and Better

– By Janice Llanes Fabry –

It might have a different address, but La Piccola Casa is the same gem it has always been, perhaps a little more brilliant. The larger, more elegant reincarnation reopened at 410 West Boston Post Road in Mamaroneck on May 5. It boasts an expanded menu, a more extensive wine list and valet parking on the weekend. Longtime patrons are especially pleased that the little restaurant that could still offers the great big flavor they have relished for 12 years.

Owner and Chef Walter Ricci’s unwavering commitment to his kitchen is evident in every dish. Not only does he cook each one personally, he also heads to Hunts Point a few times a week to select meat, fish and vegetables himself.

“I always use fresh ingredients and I make everything every single day,” said Ricci. “I prepare the food according to our reservations.”

Having learned the intricacies of Northern Italian cuisine in his native Peru, Ricci has been working in kitchens here since he settled in Mamaroneck almost 35 years ago. He was sous chef at Umberto’s in Rye and chef-owner at Giorgio’s in Port Chester before opening the original La Piccola Casa in 1997.

When he first heard the news about People’s United Bank taking over his beloved restaurant at 1422 East Boston Post Road, the news took the wind out of his sails. Now, he feels it was a blessing in disguise that has broadened his horizons — the new location offers a much better view. The scenic waterfront at Fenimore Road has replaced the Toyota dealership the old restaurant used to face.

“I love being right across from the harbor. It’s more beautiful and there’s more activity. Plus parking is available,” said Ricci, referring to the vacant gas station on the corner.

And that’s not all. Now that it resides in a centrally-located 1792 landmark building, where author James Fenimore Cooper resided in the 1800s, La Piccola Casa has earned a little more cachet. After an extensive renovation, new crystal chandeliers, marble floors, and cushier seating complement the eatery’s familiar black-and-white photographs of Italy, the miniature vases of carnations and the white table linens throughout the larger dining room and barroom.

The jewel in the crown for Ricci, however, is the kitchen. “I’m so happy with my new kitchen. It’s bigger, so I can cook more of a variety.”

New on the menu are filet mignon marsala; a veal chop surprise, pounded and stuffed with prosciutto, fontina cheese, porcini mushrooms and red onions; a pasta trio that includes fettucini alfredo, ravioli filetto di pomodoro and tortellini La Piccola Casa. A new deep fryer is also serving up fried calamari and French fries. Also new is a reasonably priced lunch menu that includes an entrée, a tricolore salad and vegetable for $13.95.

Ricci’s signature specials prevail with lobster fra diavolo over linguine, salmon meuniere and his roasted chicken, which is marinated in garlic, onions, lemon, jalapeno peppers and olive oil for two days. Plenty of al dente pastas are on hand, including angel hair La Piccola Casa served with a light Bolognese cream sauce with prosciutto, beef and peas. Fans will be glad to know La Piccola Casa sauce jars will become available this fall. While Chef Ricci won’t divulge the secrets of his outstanding sauce, he was happy to share his favorite red snapper recipe.
Red Snapper Marachiata
Serves 2.

2- 10 oz. snapper filets
4 clams
4 mussels
2 lobster tails
2 shrimp
¼ lb. sliced calamari
4 T. olive oil
1 c. marinara sauce
½ c. white wine
½ c. fish stock
2 t. chopped onions
1 t. chopped garlic
4 basil leaves
1 pinch oregano
Salt and pepper to taste

Fry snapper filets in olive oil until golden brown. Remove from the oil, then sautée the onions, garlic, basil, oregano, salt and pepper. Add the snapper, the remaining seafood, white wine, fish stock and marinara sauce to the pan. Sautée for 10 minutes. Serve with your favorite vegetable and garlic bread.

Hours:
Lunch and Dinner
Monday – Thursday Noon – 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday Noon – 11 p.m.
Sunday Noon – 9 p.m.
For reservations, call 777-3766.