Home Plate
Morgans Weighs in with Upscale Seafood and More

– By Rye Record staff –

With an attractive, modern décor, comfortable seating with a mix of banquettes by the tall windows in front and across from the open kitchen, ample-sized tables throughout and a community table near the entrance, and bustling ambience without the noise one encounters in so many restaurants, Morgans Fish House is a great addition to the local dining scene. On several occasions since its May 1 opening, we've tasted the food, sipped the wine and tested the service at Morgans and enjoyed every occasion.

What first catches your eye at the new Sullivan/Fabr-y/McKiernan venture (they're also owners of Ruby's and the first two own The Rye Grill & Bar, Elm Street Oyster Bar in Greenwich and Lexington Square Café in Mt. Kisco) is the outstanding wine list with an interesting selection of domestic and foreign wines. We ordered a white burgundy, which was served at just the right temperature, poured in generous portions, at generous prices.

On all occasions, the wait staff was knowledgeable about the wines and the menu, set just the right tone from start to finish, and was friendly without being overly friendly. They were there when we needed them and graciously absent otherwise.

The appetizers, in generous portions, are all excellent; two make a fine meal in themselves. If you're a raw bar person, make sure to try the mustard and sesame-crusted salmon roll. The grilled flatbread with artichokes, tomatoes and prosciutto is listed under salads, but it belongs in the “out of this world” category. One night we sat at the bar with friends and just ordered that with a glass of wine. The New England clam chowder was declared, “the best we've ever had, with just the right balance of cream and clams” by two of our staff. The crab cakes were light and scrumptious, served with vegetable slaw and basil remoulade.

The menu is predominantly seafood and fish, but there are meat and vegetable dishes as well, and the memorable Morgans Surf & Turf if you're of mixed mind. The choices range from simply grilled seafood to more complex dishes with a variety of sauces, spices and purees.  You can't go wrong with the seared rare peppered tuna with haricots verts and pine nut currant dressing or the grilled herb-marinated swordfish with mushroom potato cake, roasted garlic and green olive pesto. The pan-roasted Amish chicken with rosemary garlic sauce is tender and tasty.

If you're ordering the simply grilled items, you'll need to order a side dish. There are lots to choose from — sautéed broccoli rabe, arugula hashed potatoes, fregola risotto, to name a few.

The entrees are more substantial. The porcini-dusted Atlantic halibut with honshemiji mushrooms and sautéed spinach is Morgans best seller for good reason. Every bite delivers different flavors, all good.

Save room for dessert, especially the vanilla panna cotta with blood orange compote, the warm chocolate cake with pistachio gelato and the surprising basil gelato marinated in strawberries.

Chef Mark Filippo gets high marks for adding new and original touches to time-honored dishes. He has a well-deserved following from years working his culinary magic at Café Mezze in Hartsdale.

Our dinners all lasted about two hours. The overall experience — food, wine, service and ambience — was close to perfection, which explains the higher than average prices. We loved the casual, yet upscale experience.

According to co-owner/manager Lisa McKiernan, Morgans will open for lunch in the coming months. We can't wait. We'll get there early to ensure we sit in one of the banquettes, where conversation flows easily and we can look out onto Blind Brook or into the gleaming kitchen and talk with the chef.

Morgans Fish House
22 Elm Place
Rye
921-8190
www.morgansfishhouse.net

Hours
Sun through Thurs, 5 - 10 pm
Weekends, 5 - 11 pm

Prices
Appetizers, $8 and up
Raw Bar Appetizers, $12 and up
Salads, $8 and up
Entrees, $23 and up
Wines by the glass, $9 and up