Beyond Rye – A Brief Visit to Prague

– By Paul Hicks –

A traveler to Prague quickly discovers that the capital of the Czech Republic is both wonderful and compact. Even though the city’s population of 1.2 million people is spread out over a large metropolitan area, almost everything of interest to tourists lies within the historic center.

Walking is by far the best way to see Prague, and the city maps, which clearly divide the central section into five principal areas, are easy to use. As a backup, you can always take a trolley on one of the many conveniently laid-out tramlines to your next destination.

We used both modes of transportation to and from our small hotel, located close to Prague Castle, which is high on a hill overlooking the city and the Vlatva River. With six comfortable rooms, the Hotel U raka (meaning at the Sign of the Crayfish) is a half-timbered former farmhouse built in the mid-1700s that now combines modern comforts with old-world charm.

Within the walls of Prague Castle, which dates to the ninth century, there are three main courtyards containing St. Vitus’s Cathedral and several other churches as well as numerous other historic buildings. Having a guided tour is the best way to appreciate the numerous historical and cultural features of the world’s largest castle area.

One castle building we particularly enjoyed is the Lobkowicz Palace, which was finally returned to private ownership in 2002 after being confiscated by the Nazis and then appropriated by the Communists. It contains a fascinating art collection, including masterpieces by Breughel, Canaletto and Velasquez. The palace gallery was opened to the public two years ago by the Lobkowicz family, which is headed by William Lobkowicz, who moved to Prague from Massachusetts in the 1990s.

The terrace of the café at the Lobkowicz Palace has panoramic views of the city and river that should not be missed. The museum is also one of the many venues around Prague where concerts are held at various times during the day and at night throughout the year. For dedicated music lovers, however, it is best to visit the city in May when the annual Prague Spring Music Festival takes place.

Wherever you go in Prague there are reminders of Czech history and culture. One of the most enjoyable places we visited is a quiet park containing the remains of a castle called Vysehrad, which, according to legend, was the first seat of Czech royalty. From the fortress walls along a high bluff there are more fine views up and down the river. Nearby is a cemetery that is the burial site of such Czech luminaries as the composer Bedrich Smetana and the writer Franz Kafka.

No national figure is more revered by the Czech people than Saint Wenceslaus, who is best known in the Anglo-American world through a Christmas carol as “good” king Wenceslaus. It is significant that Wenceslaus Square in Prague is not just a memorial to the patron saint of Bohemia. It also commemorates the death of a student protestor in 1969 and the rallies there in 1989 that led to the Velvet Revolution and the overthrow of communism.

All of the sightseeing is guaranteed to whet anyone’s thirst and appetite. Czech beers are justly famous, but we also enjoyed both white and red wines from the Moravian region. Thanks to the owner of our hotel, we had dinner at a sampling of very good restaurants whose specialties ranged from duck to fish, pork, veal and rabbit.

Two of the restaurants were right next to the river and provided lighted views of the handsome Charles Bridge as well as Prague Castle. Although goulash and dumplings are still on many menus, it is easy to find places that serve good soups and salads, including two near the top of Petrin Hill, which can be reached by a funicular or by walking up through a large park.

Many believe that the best time to visit Prague is in the early fall or spring, although the city can be crowded around Easter time. We were fortunate to be there just before President Obama arrived for a state visit. Serendipitously, we had a chance to watch a dress rehearsal of the ceremony for his arrival at the gates of Prague Castle, complete with a marching band and honor guard. It’s fair to say that Prague holds many surprises.