Voice of the Vine – Think Pinots This Spring

– By Lou Campoli –

Now that spring is here, our wining and dining habits change. Both are in transition from heavy and hearty to light and bright.

We recently had the opportunity to taste two wines that fill that bill.

They are from the same producer and are grape varieties with which we are all familiar – pinot grigio and pinot noir. The wines are produced under the Kris label. They are actually made by winemaker Franz Haas in the northern Italian region of Trentino-Alto Adige. In the late 1990s, Leonardo LoCascio, founder and CEO of the United States importer and distributor, Winebow, convinced Haas, who was an experienced winemaker, to produce the Kris line of wines for export to the U. S. The rest is history.

Pinot grigio, also known in France and other parts of the world as pinot gris, and pinot noir grapes are grown all over the world. The versions from Alsace, California and Oregon are usually fuller bodied than the original, northern Italian pinot grigio. Pinot noir, originally from France's Burgundy region, is known as pinot nero in Italy.

As with pinot grigio, pinot noir wines from other parts of the world tend to be fuller bodied and fruitier than those from Alto Adige. Because the climate is cooler in Alto Adige, the grapes are picked earlier and the resulting wines are higher in acidity and lower in alcohol. True, these wines tend to be lighter, but that is as intended and enables them to pair well with a wide variety of foods.

Kris Pinot Grigio ($12-14) is one of the more exciting pinot grigios on the market, and it represents a fabulous value, with flavors the equal of other pinot grigios at almost twice the price. Haas ferments this wine in stainless-steel tanks, not wanting any oaky overtones. This keeps the wine fresh, bright and refreshing. It shows intriguing flavors of citrus, apricots, tangerine and almonds, with floral notes on the crisp finish. Enjoy it with white-sauced pasta dishes, risotto, seafood and shellfish, white meats and even quiches and omelets.

Kris Pinot Nero ($12-14) is a rarity, a pinot noir that actually has pinot noir flavors and characteristics at an affordable price. The pinot noir grape enjoys the moderately cold weather of Alto Adige. Haas allows minimal usage of oak barrels, but the bulk of the fermentation and aging is in stainless-steel tanks in an effort to ensure the wine is fresh and crisp, with remarkably clean flavors. This wine is characterized by subtle and elegant blackberry and red cherry flavors. It matches well with red-sauced pastas, pizza, sausages, red and white meat dishes, grilled vegetables, salmon, prosciutto, and pungent cheeses such as Taleggio.

This season try wines that are budget- and food-friendly. If you haven't tried pinot grigio or pinot nero in a while, you'll find that these wines are as welcoming as spring flowers.